Sea-Splashed Cuisine at Souvlaki GR

Life in New York City is fast-paced; it’s no wonder that many of its eateries are also fast-paced as well as mobile. Food trucks serving everything from fried-clams to beef shish kabob, from potato knishes to corn on the cob, are everywhere. While many believe this is a good thing, providing fast and affordable food, many others see it as a threat to refined dining.

To satisfy that latter constituent of gourmands, who crave their fast food with a dash of aesthetic ambiance, Souvlaki GR opened a stationary eatery at 116 Stanton St on the Lower East Side in May 2011.

It is far from the Cyclades, this begrimed block of the Lower East Side. Yet here is bougainvillea spilling over a blazing white wall, a cobblestone sidewalk washed white, and doors in that impossible Aegean blue.

Inside, there is more bougainvillea, spiraling to the ceiling; more cobbles underfoot; and everywhere the color of the sea.

Here you’ll find S GR’s standard cuisine, as proffered by way of their trucks, newly proffered by way of genuine-looking fake flowers, painted stones and doors and shutters opening to nowhere. But the skewered or pita-enfolded pork and chicken are moist with the complementary hint of char. The minimal condiments and garnishes are effective: tomatoes, red onions, enhanced with splashes of tzatziki. This, along with handfuls of French fries, add the obligatory “salt and crunch” to the affair.

There are, of course, other items on Souvlaki GR’s menu; but this was what most concerned me. In fact, it was running through my mind as I was lunching at a Souvalaki GR truck at the corner of Broadway and 57th Street and reading the Times.

The “sea-splashed” décor at Souvlaki GR.

Source: NY Times

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