“As I Stood There, ‘Twixt Earth and Sky”

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The Empire State Building has been named by the American Society of Civil Engineers as one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World. The building and its street floor interior are designated landmarks of the New York City Landmarks Preservation Commission, and confirmed by the New York City Board of Estimate. Designed by Gregory Johnson (reputedly, in two weeks!!!) and his firm Shreve, Lamb and Harmon, built by Starret Brothers and Eken, financed by John J. Raskob (creator of General Motors) under the chairmanship of Alfred Smith, former Governor of New York, the building was constructed in a little over a year and officially opened on May 1, 1931.

Unfortunately, its opening coincided with the Great Depression and this resulted in most of its designated office space remaining unrented and the building unprofitable. Critics began calling it the “Empty State Building” and derided it as a white elephant. Visitors to its observation decks were the Empire’s State Building primary source of revenue for its first years of operation; this would continue to be the case, more or less, until 1950.

Within less than six years, over 3,000,000 people from all over the world had visited the building’s two observatories: the broader 86th floor gallery and the primary 102nd floor tower. There are many stories regarding these first visitors to the Empire State Building and the following are only a handful.

An experienced pilot and his wife. She was terrified of flying and had never set foot in an airplane but when she reached the gallery she took-off with abandon; when she ascended the tower, she was soaring with fascination. The view from 1,250 feet of New York City and beyond enthralled her so, that she even wanted to climb the mooring mast (a misguided and abandoned extension to the tower for dirigible landings) for an even better view. Meanwhile, her aviator husband, who had flown thousands of miles around the world, was terrified by this static height and stood inside the terrace’s glass-enclosure.

One day the King of Morovo in the Solomon Islands (soon to witness some of the bloodiest fighting of World War II) arrived. His name was Kata Ragoso, a giant chieftain with a kinky jounce of hair and bare legs beneath his wildly colorful apparel. His like had never been seen on Fifth Avenue before…at any altitude. Oblivious to the curious stares of others, he abandoned himself to his delightful viewing of the city: drawn out like a tapestry before him, the stream of automobiles and ships moving diversely on streets and rivers, gleefully chuckling and excitedly commenting on various sights in his native language.

A young Mexican girl who had come to New York from Texas, staying with a family in Brooklyn. She was glib towards most of the sights of New York City until she came to the top of the Empire State Building. She trembled with emotion and began to cry, not uttering a single word until she returned to the home where she was staying. She tearfully remarked that she’d “rather live in Texas…everything here is so towering it frightens me.”

Two great men stood atop the Empire State Building one overcast day in 1932 and conversed for the press: Alfred E. Smith and Winston Churchill. Smith, as chairman of the project, had made the Empire State Building’s creation and future plans a personal crusade and would talk with anyone who would listen, tirelessly endeavoring to rent its empty office space and show a profit. Some beneficial moments of national and international public relations were always welcome.

In the course of their casual talk, Smith and Churchill shared views and impressions of what they observed. “I can’t see the Statue of Liberty,” Churchill mildly remarked. “You can on a clear day,” answered Smith. “Ah, quite so, quite so, ” Churchill agreed, “the Statue of Liberty does seem to be in a bit of a fog, what.” As the talk proceeded, Churchill said that he had “never been so high up before.” To which Smith replied, ” And I don’t suppose I shall ever get any higher myself.” Alfred Smith would remain a legend in New York State, while Winston Churchill would go on to be a legend for the world.

Of all the visitors to the Empire State Building’s aerie heights, no single person captured the majestic view and grandeur of the building with more intensity and passion than Helen Keller. Rendered deaf and blind as a child by an affliction (possibly meningitis), she was still able to see and hear with the heart of a poet. In a letter to Dr. John Finley, she wrote as follows of her visit:

What did I “see and hear” from the Empire Tower? As I stood there ‘twixt earth and sky, I saw a romantic structure wrought by human brains and hands that is to the burning eye of the sun a rival luminary. I saw it stand erect and serene in the midst of storm and the tumult of elemental commotion. I heard the hammer of Thor ring when the shaft began to rise upward. I saw the unconquerable steel, the flash of testing flames, the sword-like rivets. I heard the steam drills in pandemonium. I saw countless skilled workers welding together that mighty symmetry. I looked upon the marvel of frail, yet indomitable hands that lifted the tower to its dominating height.

Let cynics and supersensitive souls say what they will about American materialism and machine civilization. Beneath the surface are poetry, mysticism and inspiration that the Empire Building somehow symbolizes. In that giant shaft I see a groping toward beauty and spiritual vision. I am one of those who see and yet believe.

helen-keller

Sources: Atop the City’s Great Peak by Julia Chandler; NY TIMES, January 17, 1937

Churchill Is Guest Of Smith On Tower; NY TIMES, February 10, 1932

Wikipedia & related links

Time & Time Bomb Again

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Walter Scheele, a German scientist, had been living in the United States for more than twenty years. A former artillery lieutenant in the German army until 1893, he was assigned to America to study chemistry and report new advances to his superiors. These reports were found to be so valuable that he was paid $1,500 a year to remain in the US and continue studying…and plotting.

When World War I began, Scheele’s knowledge increased in value and he received $10,000 along with orders from the Kaiser to manufacture chemical bombs. The scientist was living in Hoboken and opened an office under the name New Jersey Agricultural Company. Amidst a room crowded with test tubes and vials he began constructing his first of many time bombs.

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The device was about the size and shape of a cigar and its outer shell was made of lead. Scheele divided the “cigar” down its middle with a copper disc which separated a mixture of sulfuric acid at one end and picric acid (it’s still uncertain what the combustible agent was) at the other end. The device would burst into flames when the acid dissolved the copper disc and conjoined the two chemical mixtures; if strategically placed near large quantities of  explosive or flammable materials, the results would be devastating.

German saboteurs placed Scheele’s incendiary bombs on ships and in smaller munitions depots around the country. Each success emboldened them towards bigger targets: Black Tom Island, the country’s largest munitions depot, became their biggest target on July 30, 1916.

Around midnight, three German spies planted numerous incendiaries in various supply boats, railroad cars and storage buildings containing shells and dynamite headed to the front and set the timers. Within a flash of moments flames were reaching for the sky turning New York Harbor into a battlefield.

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The Statue of Liberty was pelted with shrapnel, severely damaging its torch and arm, and the roof at Ellis Island caved in. Windows as far away as 42nd Street were shattered and people as far south as Maryland felt the ground shake. Police officers responding to the scene were killed by flying debris and barges along the river (as well as the immigrants living on them) were incinerated.  The Truth About Political Stuff

A recent study concluded that the blast would have been equal to a 5.5 magnitude earthquake, thirty times greater than the collapse of the World Trade Center‘s North Tower which was registered at  2.3. Miraculously, only seven fatalities were (officially) reported, including a barge captain, two policemen and a child tossed from a crib in Jersey City. Black powder, TNT and ammunition continued to “cook off” until dawn.

No traces of the bombs themselves were ever found and no one was ever prosecuted until 1939. On the eve of World War II, a commission found Germany liable for $95 million in damages that the then Nazi regime refused to pay. The case was settled in 1979.

Source: NY Times

Late-Season Storm #1

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Snowbanks along Madison Avenue

The Great Blizzard of 1888 (aka The Great White Hurricane of 1888) struck on March 12; it was a storm unlike any other. By some accounts, a late-season hurricane colliding with a cold front produced the storm. In less than 24 hours,  New York found itself buried under snowdrifts two stories deep in many places; wind gusts exceeding 60 miles per hour made a bad situation even worse. The city was paralyzed for nearly two weeks.

read more: New York Historical Society

The Devil’s Patriotism

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If you’ve ever seen Alfred Hitchcock‘s Saboteur (1942), you’ll probably recall one brief but noteworthy scene. While fleeing to the Statue of Liberty, Fry (Norman Lloyd) the saboteur is restlessly glancing out his taxi cab window. The cab passes a pier where a ship is seen lying grotesquely on its side; to all appearances, the aftermath of a calamitous event. Fry views the destruction with obvious pleasure; a certain gleam in his ferret-like eyes. Even though his own attempt to sabotage a newly launched ship had just been thwarted (at that moment, police are pursuing him) one gets the impression that he takes consolation in the thought that while he might have failed others may have succeeded.

What Fry is observing (along with the audience, of course) is quite possibly the remains of an actual sabotage of an actual ship…well, sort of.

The ship was the SS Normandie; a French ocean liner renamed USS Lafayette after being seized by US officials under the right of angary. Launched in 1932, she was once considered the “most powerful steam turbo-electric propelled ship ever built” as well as being considered by many as the “the greatest of all ocean liners.” Despite this, the ship turned out to be a commercial failure. Now in US possession, she was moored at Manhattan’s Pier 88 on November 9, 1942, being refitted as a troop ship, when she met her end. Not a victim of Nazi sabotage, but rather the suspected sabotage of an older and uniquely virulent phenomenon in the annals of crime in America. (Wikipedia)

At the outbreak of World War II, it was feared that German U-boats were entering New York Harbor virtually undetected. Nazi sympathizers were also known to be collaborating with the enemy and an act of sabotage was expected at any time. The FBI determined that New York’s shipyards or docks, with warship construction and cargoes supplying a growing and insatiable war, would be a primary target. But to safeguard New York Harbor, the FBI may have been forced to shake hands with the Devil: the Mafia (a crime syndicate never publicly acknowledged by the Feds until the 1960s) then headed by Lucky Luciano; the primary controllers of New York’s waterfront in the 1940s.

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Charles “Lucky” Luciano

However, when the war began, Lucky Luciano was serving a 30 to 50 year prison stretch and, presumably, wasn’t feeling very lucky. He was looking for a way out of prison and when America’s harbors were imperiled, Luciano suddenly waxed patriotic. According to his authorized biography, he had Meyer Lansky (another sudden patriot) arrange a deal with the Government through a high-ranking naval official. In exchange for security (or, more precisely, the mob’s “protection”) for warships being built and cargo being shipped, Luciano would be released from prison and deported.

Because some government officials were reluctant to deal with the Mafia (an insult to Italians in particular and to humanity in general), Lucky arranged for an “incentive.” The Mafia did what they do best and planted an incendiary bomb aboard the SS Normandie; hence, demonstrating the dire need for their services. According to Luciano, the “bomb was blamed on the Germans, and the government was extorted into taking the deal by Lansky and the Italian mafia.” Within a few days, Luciano was released and deported to Sicily. Absolute Astronomy

Saboteur (1942)Directed by Alfred HitchcockShown: Norman Lloyd

Lloyd as “Fry”

When Hitchcock heard of the fire aboard the Normandie, he promptly sent a news crew to the scene to capture some film footage of the disaster. They arrived the next day, after the resulting fire had been extinguished, but the wrecked hull of the ship alongside its mooring would be immortalized in Saboteur. It’s said that government officials asked Hitchcock to remove the footage but he refused.  Perhaps the great director reasoned (as I do) that Fry and Luciano had more in common than either villain would allow. They were both patriotic in their own diverse fashion and both dedicated to their own twisted cause.

A Hoax Within a Hoax Within a Tale

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He was simply known as Lozier, and when he spoke people listened. It could be said that he was the Walter Cronkite of his time: highly-respected, sagacious; everyone trusted his opinions and heeded his advice. He had traveled the world and was learned in everything. Whether the topic was political or financial, social or spiritual, Lozier had a ready answer to people’s questions. His wisdom was only equaled and complemented by his charm; it was this charm that could convince the most skeptical individual that what Lozier had to say was indeed true. Hence, in July of 1824, one of American history’s greatest hoaxes was born.

Centre Market was situated at the junction of Baxter, Centre, and Grand Streets in New York City. In the early 19th century, the bulk of the entire city was crammed into Lower Manhattan and was becoming further crammed with each passing year. Centre Market was a bustling spot for shopping and socializing; a place where people came to pick up groceries as well as pick up on the latest news and gossip. In fact, an area was set aside replete with long benches and soapboxes where various orators would deliver their latest announcements and pronouncements. This was where Lozier reigned supreme over all other lecturers and sermonizers, gossipmongers and aspiring prophets…no one could get enough of him.

Over a century before television would place a “talking head” in everyone’s home, Lozier was a full-bodied talking head who was gifted at dialogue as well as monologue. He never missed a day speaking at Centre Market and was always available for both public and private debates; if anything, he was never at a loss for words. His friends and associates could always depend on Lozier having something to say about anything beneath the sun or underneath the earth or beyond the stars.

Then, sometime in the aforementioned July, 1824, Lozier suddenly went silent and unaccountably wished to be left alone. He withdrew into a corner of Centre Market and into himself, chasing away anyone who approached him. After several weeks of brooding dormancy, Lozier decided to tell a small group of puzzled followers what was troubling him. The small group very quickly became a large crowd, as more passersby began gravitating towards the vocally and socially reanimated Lozier. He prepared them slowly but surely for what was disturbing him, telling the crowd that his problem wasn’t his alone but affected all their lives. This time, they listened to what he had to say like they had never listened before; he told to them quite solemnly that Manhattan Island was about to fall into the sea.

After the inevitable flowing cries and surging gasps from the crowd died down, the obligatory group of fainting ladies finally revived, Lozier went into details concerning this quite depressing news. He explained how Manhattan Island was weighted down at the Battery (its southernmost end) with buildings and the island was tipping more and more towards the sea. When some skeptics questioned this, he had them look at the streets running from City Hall…all ran downhill towards the harbor. Lozier further illustrated the catastrophic imminence of “downhill topography” by telling them that if rivers ran to the sea, the streets around them ran to the sea, it only followed that the island they lived on would follow such streets and ultimately fall into the sea.

Now there was sheer panic. It was true! But Lozier told them not to worry as he had almost figured out a solution. He asked them to give him a few more days and he would announce how Manhattan could be saved from becoming an underwater city.

After a few days the news came that Lozier was going to speak that afternoon at the Market. Needless to say, hundreds showed up to hear his solution. With much drama, Lozier explained how Manhattan Island could be spared impending submersion. First it would be necessary to saw the island off at the northern end, at the Kingsbridge, and tow it past both Governor’s and Ellis Island and out to sea. Meanwhile, the lower, heavy half of Manhattan would be towed north and attached to the mainland. The other half would now be re-towed and reattached to the newly-created northern half of Manhattan. Zoning laws could be passed to prevent construction of buildings on this lighter end. Problem solved!

For several days the sawing off of Manhattan Island was on everyone’s mind. When public interest was at its height, Lozier, who, needless to say, had a perfect sense of timing, again showed up at Centre Market. He held up a large ledger and announced that the names of all able-bodied men would be recorded as applicants to work on the project. Over 300 men signed up the first day! Lozier next hired a handful of contractors and carpenters to furnish lumber and build large barracks which would be used by laborers during the actual saving process. Going one step further, he also ordered a separate building to be constructed to house a mess hall to feed the workers. Continuing with the well-executed plan, Lozier next notified butchers to submit their bids for five hundred head of cattle, the same number of legs, and three thousand chickens!

Lozier was having great fun. He constantly conjured up up new things that had to be done before the actual sawing could take place. He next sought out some blacksmiths to have them make fifteen crosscut saws one hundred feet in length (each sawtooth alone stood 3 feet high); it would take fifty men to operate each saw. They also needed to make several miles of heavy gauge chain which could be wrapped around trees and attached at the other end to the fifteen hundred boats he was having built. (It must be added that no one questioned just who was going to finance this operation.)

Perhaps the single event in this plot that tops them all in terms of humor is that of a “pitman.” Lozier, at Centre Market, announced new applications were being taken for several pitmen. He explained that a pitman had the most dangerous job. That job entailed being on the bottom end of the cross cut saw — under water! Since the job was so dangerous, the pay was triple of those on top of the saw.

To qualify for the job, the applicants were required to hold their breath and be timed. Those with the longest time would be selected as pitmen. All day long the scene was the same. A man would have his turn at the front of the line, Lozier would activate his stopwatch while the man held his breath. At a certain point the man’s face would turn various shades of red then, finally, let out a burst of breath. Several men got in line more than once to see if they could top their prior breathless records.

Eventually, the time came when Lozier could stall no longer. People were getting restless and anxious to start the project. He was forced to announce a starting date. Even this was done with great flair. The date was announced and the workers hired. All were to report at 6 AM at a specific location on the Battery end. From there a parade would march to City Hall — complete with bands! Thousands showed up at the appointed time and place — all except Lozier, that is. He left town the night before and was never seen again.

History has not recorded how long these people waited around before it finally dawned on them that Lozier had made a permanent, one-way departure; leaving behind this moaning herd of befuddled dupes.

Is Manhattan Island still sinking? No problem. Call Lozier! If you could find him.

NOTE: What you just read was a spurious tale about a hoax; or, if you will, an urban legend. It originated in 1835. A business partner of a real life Lozier claimed that he told him the story. In turn, the business partner told the story to his son and grandson many times over. The tale, presumably, gaining more and more elaboration as it was told and retold. Somehow, long before the Internet, the story went viral and it became a popular conversation piece of the mainstream.

Despite the truth behind it all was allegedly revealed in the 1870s, many journalistic history books continued to retell the story as being factual well into the mid-twentieth century! If anything, heedless of one fact: despite being largely undereducated, most people living in New York in the early 1800s (or at any other time) were not that gullible… and certainly not that stupid. In fact, to have believed that there ever was such a hoax would be almost as ridiculous as being duped by Lozier himself.

Buried in Semantics

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Who is buried in Grant’s Tomb? You might presume to know the answer to this very old and apparently very obvious question. However, you’re likely to be wrong. The question was popularized by the immortal Groucho Marx on his hit quiz show “You Bet Your Life” back in the 50s. He’d asked that of contestants, who were doing poorly, so as to enable them to easily win some money; a consolation prize question, if you will. Of course, the reasonable answer would invariably be “President Grant” (or “Grant”) is buried in Grant’s Tomb; after all, the place has his name on the door. Nevertheless, that’s an incorrect answer…technically, at least.

After his turbulent Presidency, besieged by scandal and corruption (for which, most historians believe, Grant was entirely innocent of), the aged and cancer-stricken former General-in-Chief of the Union Army, moved to New York City with his wife Julia. Touched by the outpouring of support he received from New Yorkers, his last wish was to be buried here.

Designed by the architect John Duncan, the granite and marble tomb stands in the Morningside Heights section of Manhattan. But like many landmarks that opened with promising fanfare and beauty, Grant’s Tomb gradually became rundown due to neglect. In fact, from the middle to the late 20th century, 9 out of 10 New Yorkers (including myself) didn’t even know where exactly this famous tomb could be found. This may have furthered the prevalence of the “Who’s buried in….?” teaser. However, in 1989, a renewed interest in the American Civil War was helped along by Ken Burns’ The Civil War documentary; it also inspired a restoration of Grant’s Tomb.

Now, for all of those who care to know (and especially for those who don’t) just who is buried in Grant’s Tomb, the fact is that no one is buried (below ground) there. Ulysses Grant and his wife are entombed (above ground) in Grant’s Tomb. But the arguable semantics concerning “buried”/”entombed” may keep this question going for yet another 50 years and beyond.

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Restoring The Shore

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Despite being closed for 39 years, Coney Island’s Shore Theatre has never been forgotten. The theatre was one among numerous Brooklyn movie houses that died as a result of variegated technology and diminished audiences in the 1960s/ 1970s: high-tech televisions and multi-screen theatres replacing the stately with the dynamic.

Opened in 1925, the Shore Theatre was designed (reminiscent of an Italian Renaissance palazzo) by theatre architects Reilly & Hall and built by the Chanin Construction Company. An unusual construction for Brooklyn, the building combined a movie theatre with a six-story office complex; a design more typical of Manhattan’s Theatre District. The 2,387-seat Shore Theatre was stately in a day and age when “taking in a movie” was serious business; in fact, it meant going to the theatre in its most lavish and sophisticated sense.

The Shore was originally named the Loew’s Coney Island Theatre when Marcus Loew, theatre chain magnate, began operating the theatre soon after it opened; it was renamed the Shore Theatre in 1964. “The Sporting Venus,” a silent, was the first film screened at the Shore together with live performances by Siamese twins Violet and Daisy Hilton. On August 11, 1949, according to one source, Al Jolson performed there. By the 1970s, the theatre came a long way from the like of feature films, Siamese twins and Jolson when it was reduced to showing X-rated films until finally closing down  in 1973.

The defunct building is currently owned by longtime Coney Island entrepreneur  Horace Bullard who owns the tottering Kansas Fried Chicken eatery. The Shore Theatre has recently been nominated for landmark designation; but, in spite of pleas and cajoling from Coney Island locals and historians to sell, Bullard stubbornly continues to hold on to his vacant property…awaiting the best of all possible offers, I would suspect.

Now that Coney Island is finally being revived (hopefully), the plan is to turn the Shore Theatre into a performing arts center featuring live concerts, circuses, and various other forms of entertainment; another effort to make the island an all-year- round destination. In short, to allow the Shore Theatre to live again in a Coney Island that’s experiencing a second life.

Check out Cinema Treasures for more detailed information on the Shore Theatre as well as the Gothamist for a related article containing some exterior/ interior shots of the theatre in better days.

 

Remembering the New York World's Fair of 1939

Reblogged from mcnyblog:

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"Designing Tomorrow: America's World Fairs of the 1930's" opened at the Museum of the City of New York  December 5, featuring a core traveling exhibition organized by the National Building Museum, which was then expanded and adapted by the City Museum.

New York’s celebrated World’s Fair of 1939-40, held in the newly built Flushing Meadows Park in Queens, drew millions of visitors with its promise to reveal “The World of Tomorrow.” As one of the last – and the largest – of six world’s fairs that were held in the United States in the 1930s, the New York fair was the culmination of years of planning that looked to design, science, and technology to alleviate the bleak conditions of the Depression and create a brighter future.

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